Elystan Street is a neighbourhood restaurant, but the neighbourhood it happens to be in is Chelsea, so as well as unfussy cooking and friendly service, you can expect elegance and style in spades. It’s a collaboration between Philip Howard and Rebecca Mascarenhas, and with its huge windows and well-judged lighting, is an equally charming spot for a light lunch or an intimate dinner.
Cooking is pared-back and relaxed, yet there’s a vigour and an energy to it which suggests that it comes from the heart. Dishes have a classical base but there’s a lightness of touch, as well as a focus on vegetables, pasta and salads. Many dishes have Mediterranean influences and flavours are well-defined and eminently satisfying. Desserts are a highlight.