Frevo

Frevo is that rare restaurant that flies just under the radar but deserves to be in the spotlight, as Chef Franco Sampogna and his team have serious resumes. It's a tasting menu-only spot that doubles as a gallery; in fact, even the entrance is as artistic as the canvases lining its walls. There are just 18 counter seats and a table for six, but the size only adds to its exclusivity. Watch as the crew plates contemporary French dishes with a keen eye toward texture. Plump sea urchin with chopped razor clams is fragrant and tender; slow-cooked chicken with a meaty handmade ravioli in black ink sauce is daring. Bringing it back to the flavors of his native Brazil, the chef may then reveal a dessert of caramel and dulce de leche ice cream with toasted hazelnuts.