In a cozy corner of Uptown where the subway rumbles overhead, Chef Norman Fenton mines his history and his travels to celebrate Mexican cuisine in a distinct, ambitious manner. He lists out ingredients like an auctioneer, and his pace is relentless. Quickly, the courses compound: A stunning huitlacoche ravioli with fried corn silk, then a queso truffle quesadilla, and at some point, a lamb tartare tostada seasoned in the style of al pastor. Indeed, this breathless tasting menu features boldness and creativity in spades, starting with “chips and salsa” in the form of salsa verde jelly and a tortilla crumble. The best seats are at the counter, which offer an up-close view of this small team, all of whom work diligently and engage with guests freely.