Unlike many of the other restaurants in the east of Paris, this one has gone for classic elegance: a refined decor, tablecloths, stylish service. Perhaps this is the mark of the good taste of Italian couple Cecilia Spurio (pastry) and Eugenio Anfuso (cooking), who are familiar with Michelin-starred restaurants. Prepared with small pieces of citrus fruit and cashew nuts, the smoked Galician veal tartare is served in a sea urchin shell, topped with a quenelle of sea urchin ice cream. For his red mullet à la bourguignonne, the chef arranges the fish on shredded beef and cabbage leaves, the whole of which is then doused with a superb sauce. This is a modern iteration of the French repertoire, punctuated by a few Italian touches or other influences from further afield, executed with precision and a clear penchant for acidic notes.