A semi-finalist of France’s 2020 Top Chef show, Brussels-born Mallory Gabsi loves to cook. He communicates his enthusiasm through a varied, savvy score that astutely balances acidic and bitter notes. This refreshing wind of culinary audacity contrasts with the establishment’s plush, muted interior that is reminiscent of a luxurious ocean liner of yesteryear thanks to pale varnished marquetry, wool-upholstered seating and Art deco wall lamps… Gabsi, the darling of a new generation of foodies, signs a “Turquoise Menu” (his favourite colour) scattered with succulent nods to his homeland (such as his take on eels in sorrel, lacquered in beer) and pulls off daring combinations of explosive flavours such as a dessert that blends tobacco, vanilla and coffee.