New Yorkers have restaurateur Cristina Castañeda to thank for this spirited and deeply warm Mexican spot, rooted in the traditions of western Mexico and inspired by Jalisco's ranchos. The dining room is festive and welcoming, and the energy of the room is buoyed by families, friends and celebratory tables. Covacha's agave-focused bar, stocked with tequila, mezcal and a page of boutique agave wines, is a fitting companion to the food.
The menu is consice, with no filter and no shortcuts. Begin with crisp chicken quesabirrias, dipped into rich birria broth, then move to barbacoa tapatìa: slow-roasted beef shank served with tortillas and brothy beans for a build-your-own experience that's unapologetically messy and full of flavor. Portions are generous, prices fair and the cooking genuine rather than overworked.