Housed within the elegant Rosselli Hotel, located on one of Valletta’s most elegant streets, Under Grain welcomes guests into a setting as sophisticated as its cuisine. The restaurant occupies the building’s historic lower level, where guests pass by the kitchen before entering a dining room with a vaulted stone ceiling and dark, atmospheric décor. Inspired by the tailor shops that once lined Merchant Street, the restaurant weaves this theme throughout, from the sewing-pattern menus to displays of garments, and even the pin-cushion used to present the bill. The cuisine offers a concise à la carte selection and a tasting menu, both showcasing a distinctly creative style. At times, the chef dares to explore bold, unexpected combinations — one of his signature dishes pairs mussels with sweet Gorgonzola and passion fruit — while at others, he turns to more classic flavors, such as a Chateaubriand served with variations on mushrooms. Even the bread course is memorable, evoking the chef’s own childhood snacks. The wine list is thoughtfully curated, featuring plenty of gems from the world, especially from Italy and France; excellent service by the glass completes the experience.