Alsace-born restaurateur Adrien Rech opened this institution dedicated to seafood in 1925. After Ducasse, it is now the turn of David and Stéphanie Le Quellec, whose Breton name alone smacks of the ocean, to celebrate fish and shellfish cuisine. The decor is sumptuous, with its huge bar, dining area on the first floor and long banquette seating. David Le Quellec serves food that is good for sharing and made with excellent, ultra-fresh ingredients from fish markets spanning France, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The ceviche of sea bream with coconut milk, lime and coriander is already a house classic – not to mention the dishes prepared from fish matured on site in the maturing cellar.