A semi-finalist in French TV's Top Chef in 2020, young Belgian chef Mallory Gabsi is starting out in Paris, near the Arc de Triomphe, in a plush setting that is reminiscent of the luxurious liners of yesteryear (pale varnished marquetry, wool-upholstered seats, Art Deco wall lamps). "Malou", much feted by a new generation of foodies, delivers his "Menu Turquoise" set menu (named for his favourite colour): dotted with delectable nods to his native Belgium (his version of anguille au vert, eel laced with beer), it pulls off daring associations of explosive flavours such as corn-fed chicken with poached oysters. Laid-back service with a smile.