Beloved by Edo folk, the seasonal tradition of eating unagi (freshwater eel) in summer has long been seen as a nutritious way to beat the heat. Preparation takes such skillful technique that it is said to take “three years to perfect skewering, eight years for filleting and a lifetime to master grilling.” In the Edo style, chefs cut the eel open along the back and steam it for a soft, fluffy texture, and then grill it carefully, adjusting the flames to subtly alter the flavor. Tokyo boasts numerous noted unagi restaurants, and modern preparations of this traditional Japanese cuisine range from orthodox to innovative. Here, you can savor pure Edo food culture at its finest.
Header image: An unaju at Unagi Tokito, recognizable from the rectangular lacquerware it's served in. Ⓒ Unagi Tokito