In our regular series, we ask famous chefs and personalities to tell us all about 'their London'. From top tips on where to dine in the city, to their personal haunts ranging from bakeries to book shops, we’ve got the inside track on London’s premier spots from the people who know it best.
As anyone who has been watching the Apple TV series Knife Edge: Chasing MICHELIN Stars will tell you, it takes a lot to achieve The MICHELIN Guide’s top awards. It’s something Emily Roux knows better than most, having gone on that very journey along with her husband Diego Ferrari as they bid to earn a Star for their restaurant Caractère. The daughter of legendary London chef Michel Roux, Emily began her career at Le Gavroche, where she met Diego, before the pair set up their own elegant operation in Notting Hill. As the London representative on Knife Edge, Roux here tells us how it feels to represent her home city, along with her recommendations for the best restaurants in London.
What’s your go-to restaurant in London when you want to celebrate?
For a special occasion with family, it would have to be either Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester or A. Wong – both conceptually very different, but executed brilliantly, striking that perfect balance of intrigue and fun within fine dining. I go to Alain Ducasse for the precision and as a Three-MICHELIN-Starred modern French restaurant, there’s a real sense of affinity. I really admire what the team are doing there. With A. Wong, I appreciate his expression and exploration of China’s regional cuisines. If I’m celebrating with friends or colleagues, I’d go somewhere a little more relaxed like Gymkhana.
Where would you recommend for a romantic date?
Closer to home in southwest London, I’d say Trinity or Chez Bruce. Diego and I are lucky to have restaurants like this right on our doorstep.Which London restaurants are perfect for a night out with friends?
I really enjoy Kricket and Josephine Bouchon in Chelsea. I like Kricket’s interpretation of modern Indian cuisine and how it draws references from different regions. I particularly like the Soho restaurant and the option to head downstairs to their bar, SOMA, for a cocktail after dinner. Josephine is a favourite for their lapin à la Parisienne, the specials and their wine list.
Where do you go for a quick bite?
It really depends. If I’m with my son, we’ll often go to Bancone for a comforting bowl of pasta – I love that it’s all made in-house, is consistently good and fairly priced. I’m also a big fan of Erchen Chang and her restaurant, Bao, for something quick and easy.How would you characterise the London food scene of today?
It’s amazing; we’re so lucky in London. You can find the very best of everything here: Japanese, Korean, Chinese and every other cuisine you could possibly crave. There’s such a richness of quality and diversity. I don’t think there’s another city in the world where you can experience so many different culinary cultures at such a high level and at this price point.
How was your experience filming Knife Edge and representing London in a global TV series?
It was an incredible experience, and I feel proud to be represented in the documentary as part of London’s culinary scene. I spent just under a year working on the project with the Knife Edge team, so it became a huge part of our lives. It truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, especially to help tell a story that hasn’t been told before, about what it really takes to achieve and maintain a MICHELIN Star.Caractère has an intriguing menu layout, where dishes are listed by their character. What was the thinking behind this?
We didn’t want to divide the menu in the traditional way of starters, mains and desserts. Instead, we wanted something more playful and instinctive, specifically a reflection of mood and personality. Each dish is grouped by a character trait like curious, subtle, delicate or robust, allowing guests to build their own tasting menu.
Do you have a favourite London hotel?
It has to be The Langham – it really ticks all the boxes in terms of the food offering and the spa’s great. My dad, Michel, works closely with the hotel overseeing the food and beverage programme, including a brilliant pub next door, The Wigmore, a modern take on the traditional British pub. It’s a place I always enjoy visiting.Where do you like to buy produce in London?
In southwest London, we have a lovely farmers’ market that takes place every Saturday in a local primary school playground. It’s such a nice weekend ritual, and a lovely community moment. From time to time, we’ll also swing by the Notting Hill Fish + Meat Shop after work or the Supermarket of Dreams. I’m also a big fan of Prezzemolo & Vitale. They have the most incredible selection of pastas, cured meats and cheeses.
Which is your favourite London neighbourhood and why?
I love Soho. It’s such a vibrant area with such a vast representation of different culinary cultures. Some of my favourites are C & R Cafe Restaurant, Plum Valley and Dumplings’ Legend. And just nearby, Xing Long Men Chinatown Supermarket is a great spot to pick up a few deli bits to take home.What does London do better than anywhere else in the world?
The food scene, without a doubt. It’s so eclectic and varied, there’s just an incredible freedom of choice. You’re almost spoilt by the range of cuisines available in London; there really is something for everyone.
If you had one day to show an out-of-towner around London, where would you take them?
Notting Hill. Much of it can be quite touristy, but there are some brilliant pockets. It’s colourful, vibrant and full of energy. The markets are great, especially heading towards Golborne Road. Most definitely something everyone visiting London should experience. And of course, aside from Caractère, I’d take them for a quick bite at It’s Bagels! or, for a classy evening, Tappo Enoteca in Westbourne Park is great for a lovely wine-led dinner.Related Articles:
Hero Image: Emily Roux from Caractère, featured in the Apple TV series ‘Knife Edge: Chasing MICHELIN Stars’. © Rebecca Dickson Photography
