Essence is the perfect spot for social types who like to mingle with their fellow guests. Everyone is seated around a big counter and served at the same time, with Chef Stefan Taylor centre stage preparing the dishes and explaining their make-up. He works alone, so there’s a slight pause between courses, and it’s here when the atmosphere becomes animated and you find yourself chatting away. Stefan has an intuitive way of combining flavours and spends hours each week drying, pickling and preparing the various elements in advance for dishes such as wild duck with mushrooms, watercress and thyme.